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Knocking & Pinging
Dear Mr.
Millar, PE,
Wow, I can’t believe it! A
letter from the “Big Cheese” himself. Or should I say from Le
Grande Fromage? Minnesota just hasn’t been the same since you
retired to Florida. As I have always said, “Antique boaters never
die, they just move to Mt. Dora.” However, it is always a pleasure
to see you and your
family every year in Red Wing.
No one
knows this octane stuff better than you. I agree with everything you
said. You have added a new dimension to the complexities of
diagnosing people’s problems without actually being there to go
through the multitude of steps to actually identify the problem.
For
example, as you well know, a specific symptom like pinging can come
as a result from many different problems or issues. You have to work
through each cause until you find the specific problem.
You may
not know this; when I respond to a specific question, I research the
potential symptoms for weeks and sometimes months before I actually
reply in my article. In this case, I called Lou Brisity at his Speed
Merchant and Transmission Shop in Milwaukee. I asked if it is his
practice to shave the block and head a bit to increase compression
and performance. Like the good technician he is, and I am sure you
will agree, he does not like to screw around with the compression on
these older engines. Just as you said, they are very sensitive to
minor changes. I was pleased to hear that he shaved both surfaces
only about .010, just enough to ensure that there was no warp in
either face and there was a good seal to the head gasket. Therefore,
I was pretty darn sure that a change in compression ratio had not
occurred from the engine rebuilding.
I am
however, remiss by not going into detail such as you have to the
very common cause of pinging. Your detailed explanation adds a great
deal to my last article. Thank you very much for your letter. I am
flattered to stand among the motor-knowledgeable elite such as
yourself and Lou Brisity.
Take care,
Dr. Motorhead
PS - Been doing any flying lately?
Dear Doctor Motorhead:
As a charter member of BSLOL (LOL) I am a devoted reader of your
“Service Tips” articles. Interestingly enough, Steve’s ACBS
number is 1206 and mine is 1207. We put our applications in at the
same LOL meeting, but Steve beat me out in the alphabet.
In your
recent article commenting on the problems Tommy Bums is having with
his engine, I agree with everything you said, but reading between
the lines in Tommy’s letter I have a strong suspicion that some
other factors than those you mention are involved.
Engines
knock for only one reason. The octane number requirement of the
engine is higher than the octane number of the fuel being used. In
an engine running at normal temperatures two factors control octane
number requirement: engine compression ratio which the operator can
do nothing about, and ignition timing as you have pointed out which
the operator can control. Another important fact is that flat head
engines (low or no turbulence combustion chambers) have a very
narrow range of knock-limited ignition advance and are also
extremely sensitive to relatively minor changes in compression
ratio, both of which have a major influence on octane number
requirement.
Buried in
Tommy’s letter is the fact that he had his engine overhauled by a
shop that specializes in high performance engines and takes enormous
pride in the quality of the work they do. My guess is that during
the overhaul process the shop took a light cut off the deck of
Tommy’s engine block and did the same to the mating side of the
cylinder head. This is common practice in quality shops to guarantee
good gasket seal knowing full well that the result is a small but
clearly measurable increase in compression ratio with its subsequent
increase in octane number requirement.
In the
case of Tommy’s engine a 020” cut off the top of the block and a
.020” cut off the mating side of the cylinder head to remove pits
and irregularities would result in a compression ratio increase from
7.22 - the
published value for the flat head Hercules based engines (MCL) to
7.64 almost a full half ratio change. For our antique flat head
engines this is a major change. Engine builders did not control the
compression ratio to the
second decimal place because they wanted to make things tough on the
manufacturing line. If this half ratio increase in fact exists, you
can no longer run the ignition advance at factory specs and still
use regular grade fuel. The engine will knock.
All our
antique engines were designed to run on unleaded marine fuel which
had a motor octane number (MON)(D-357) in the mid 80s. Today, we use
a new designation called octane number index (ONI), which is an
average of the motor method and the research method (RON)(D-908) of
the SAE standard octane number rating. Unfortunately, there is no
direct comparison between octane number index and the motor method
octane
number of a given fuel, but statistically the octane number index
appears to be two or three octane numbers higher, even though our
older marine engines were rated on the motor method.
Fortunately,
for those of us with these kinds of problems the fuel sold dockside
is usually premium with an ONI of 92 or 93. If Tommy is filling up
dockside, there is not much he can do to increase the octane number
of the fuel in his tank. If, on the other hand, his boat is on a
trailer and he fills the tank with low cost automotive fuel of 87
ONI, he can help himself by switching to premium fuel.
If
switching to premium fuel does not eliminate his problem, retarding
the basic timing of the distributor by probably no more than three
or four degrees will eliminate the ping, and you will never notice
the small loss in
performance. Just to make sure that octane number is the problem,
have some of his pilot friends get five or ten gallons of IOOLL
avgas which should clearly eliminate the knock, verify the problem
and not do the engine a bit of harm.The worrisome thing is that
running the engine under knocking conditions will sooner or later
destroy the pistons by either burning a hole in the top, breaking
the upper ring lands or breaking the rings. That usually spells the
end of the boating season for the owner.
An
alternative way to check whether inadvertently the overhaul shop has
raised the compression ratio is to measure compression pressures.
Cranking compression pressures should be in the range of 125 psi. If
the
pressure in Tommy’s engine is in the 130 or low 140 range, you can
bet your bottom dollar the shop did a good clean up job on the deck
and cylinder head and he is running an engine with higher
compression ratio than specified.
Glad to
hear you finally got the “Ark” home to Minnetonka, but as I
remember, it sank at the dock not long after being launched, or
wasn’t that the “Lana Turner” Riva.
Best regards.
Gordon H. Millar, PE
Editor, The Sheerline |