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Building Shepherd Glove Boxes
by Jerry Petersen (Part 4)
I
continue to wind my way through the total restoration of Swinging
Shepherd, my 24 foot, 1954 Shepherd hardtop cruiser. Recently, I
have focused on the mystique of the Shepherd glove box. I had seen
interior covering board oval glove boxes on smaller Shepherds, but
my 24 foot cruiser appeared to have left the factory without this
convenience. However, to my surprise, when I removed the aft
interior covering boards, I found that there were indeed originally
glove boxes on both sides of the back bench seat. They had been
covered over by replacement covering boards. Figure 1 shows the
factory framing of one of these boxes. I immediately decided that my
new covering boards would have the traditional Shepherd tear-drop
oval openings to access these boxes! I also decided that I would
make similar glove boxes for the front row of seats. If it were not
for the crank down windows amidships, I would have done the same for
the second row of seats.
Last
August, I measured the tear drop openings in one of the smaller
Shepherds at the Rendevous. The Shepherd tear-drop shape consists of
a four inch circle aft connected to a three inch circle forward. I
decided the best way to cut the opening in my new covering boards
was to use my router with a thimble guide installed. Figure 2 shows
my router with the cutter and thimble installed. The next step was
to make a template to guide the router. I did this using half inch
stock and an adjustable circle cutter in my drill press to make the
end circles. The circles were then connected using a straight edge
guide and my hand held jig saw. I finished the template by hand
sanding the interior edges to get smooth straight lines between the
circles.
I am using 6 mil Okoume
mahogany, marine grade plywood (made in Greece) for the new covering
boards. The relatively thin 6 mil thickness is needed to permit the
boards to be bent to match the curves of the hull. However, I
didn’t want a 6 mil edge on the oval openings. Hence, I bonded a
second piece of Okoume over the area in which I planned to cut the
oval openings. Figure 3 shows this extra piece of Okoume pressed in
place on top of my table saw while the bonding West System epoxy
cured. Figure 4 shows the template in place for the cut, and Figure
5 shows the opening after the cut. I then used my router, and a 1/8
inch round over bit, to ease both the outside and inside edges of
the opening. The remaining task for the front boxes was framing the
interior with 6 mil Okoume. Figure 6 shows the frame strips
installed for the port side box, and Figure 7 shows the box with all
the interior Okoume in place.
Overall, my restoration progress has been slowed by spring
landscaping jobs and hot weather, since my shop is not the most
comfortable place to enjoy 90 degree summer days. However, as
weather permits, I am returning to my task list. To date, I have:
made and installed new transom frames, repaired most of the other
frames and both chines, replaced a dozen side planks, fitted sealed
and installed new floor boards, treated all of the interior to three
coats of fresh bilge paint, fitted a new GPS antenna to the hard top
and refinished the hard top’s interior with three coats of white
gloss marine paint.
My critical path now
includes staining and refinishing the dash so that the instruments
can be re-installed and re-wiring initiated. I don’t want to put
my new transom planks on until rewiring is complete, since the
engine compartment is much easier to access with the planks off.
Once the rewiring is complete, the transom planks will be installed
and the
exterior refinished. I plan to stain and varnish the interior
covering boards and seat supports out of the boat. Covering new
stainless, or chrome plated brass, screws with varnish just
doesn’t make any sense. I have the seats back from the upholsterer
with pleated dark green leather-type fabric installed, and a roll of
matching marbleized battleship linoleum on hand for the floor. I
plan to use 1 ½ inch wide mirror surface stainless steel strips to
cover the cracks between in the floor panels, and install lifting
rings in the four panels that can be readily removed. The strips
will be secured on the removable panel edges with oval head
stainless screws. This worked well on my GarWood
utility, and will allow the bilge to be much more accessible than
with the carpet covering that was in the boat.
With a little luck, I’ll have the finished boat at the 2003
Rendevous. I also plan to take it to the ACBS Annual Meeting in
Ottawa, Canada in September, 2003, and participate in the related
Ottawa River Cruise. I had the joy of doing that cruise on a
friend’s boat a few years ago when the Annual Meeting was at
Muskoka. The Ottawa River is truly spectacular with mountains coming
right to the waters edge. I can’t wait to cruise it in the totally
restored Swingin’ Shepherd!

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